2006年12月11日星期一

我的椰香梦,沉醉三亚热带风情

  当我还没想好要来三亚的充分理由时,我的人,已经飞落到了凤凰机场,像一只离群的孤雁。

  在广州差不多三个小时的误点,使我成了当天离开白云机场侯机楼的最后一位乘客,身边多了一大堆翻烂的报纸。



  我不喜欢在黑夜中飞行的感觉,那是一种更深层次的孤独。离开大地,更让人感到自身的渺小,而一望无尽的黑,衬着永远也划不破的静,有一种在天 宇间追寻流星的感觉,刚才还是繁杂喧嚣的世界,一下子就被黑夜与寂静包裹,陪伴你的只是无尽的黑,无际的夜,一直在延伸的静……象被这个星球抛弃了一样, 心灵是孤独的。



  我不害怕孤独,但不喜欢这种没有空间,没有自由的孤独。给你太大的空间后,你反而没有了任何空间,因为你无力去驾驭它,做人就是这样的无奈。

  接车的司机是位酷哥,车送我到海景酒店时,已是凌晨时分。我还来得及欣赏三亚的夜,虽然身心都已疲惫了一整天。酒店是新开没多久的,在解放一 路跟西河西路交界处,三亚大桥侧,下面就是三亚河,大桥的另一侧就是出海口了,停泊着好多船只,它们大概跟我现在一样的累。大东海那边抬眼可及的灯火,拉 近了它跟市区间的距离。只能靠故事与想像来去品味的鹿回头岭,不知在此时的黑夜里,是否还会有痴男怨女为鹿女和猎手的神话故事而感动?



  坐在大大的窗台上,遥望远处,想像着三亚河的水色有多清纯,努力思索了半天,才想清楚自己身在哪里,原以为海南会是自己最后踏足的一片土地,我的过早到来,是不是有点迫不及待,还是身不由已?还是,制造快乐不需要理由,只需要行动?

  凌晨四时了,飘进眼帘的还是窗外的万家灯火,不是梦乡。

  窗外射进来的热辣辣的阳光唤醒了我的好梦,昨晚有意地拉起窗帘的一角,怕自己错过黎明。才六点多钟,阳光就这么狠,oh——真海南岛!

  酒店一楼的“多美丽”炸鸡店也爱睡懒觉,十点后才营业,害得我来之前就为它留的口水到现在还挂在嘴角。



  出去走了一圈,才发现三亚只是三亚,并不是泰国的芭堤雅(有点媚外的倾向了),街道的冷清和脏乱有点让我意外,刚被大火吞噬过的阳光购物城, 让人产生一种想面对它默哀的念头。农贸市场的小贩很乐意把水果以六两当一斤地来称给我,我也很比尔·盖茨款地要了过来,价钱跟自己楼下一样的不便宜,哄抬 物价以及让三亚地表引力超重并非我的本意。


  最让人自豪的椰梦廊也不想去了。

  在楼下叫了车,二十分钟后,到了亚龙湾,天域,现实中的天堂,只要你用金砖,很容易把它的大门敲开。



  在天域的花园里,懒洋洋地躺棕榈树之间的吊床上,看蓝到有点假的海,望赤裸到近乎透明的天,观偶尔飘飘而过的云,闻花香,听海浪,甚至幻想着 头顶上的椰子能掉一个下来,(你得小心蚂蚁和蚊子,它们也爱美景!)环境正是我最喜欢的那种清静,若大的海域和酒店,却让你产生只有你一个人在独享的错 觉,真自私!在贫脊的中国大地上,最腐败的事情莫过于此了。



  在房间的阳台里晾衣服时,居然有一只晰蜴爬到我手上来,三秒钟后,才回过神来,有失风度。

  在海里开着摩托艇风驰电掣般地逐浪,冲击着海风海浪,人放纵到了极点,就喜欢这种感觉。只可惜在停靠时一不小心被海浪掀了个翻,跟沙滩上的沙子来了个最亲密接触,石头的光辉形象从此就永远地烙在了亚龙湾的沙滩上,失败!

  没有白天黑夜般地在泳池里泡,结果一个星期后浑身还在酸痛。

  在清晨和傍晚,伴着晨曦与暮霭,赤脚走在从假日到凯莱的沙滩上,是一件妙不可言的事,当然你得承受着不时被海浪湿身的待遇。出门远行,最不愿错过的就是清晨与傍晚了,不知是否有同感。

  在假日,离海更近了,看海的视野也更广了,但总没有在天域时的那种温馨,当然也更吵了,但睡在床上就能看到大海,终归是一件爽事。

  假日的沙滩是迷人的,第一回下海游水,就遭遇一只水母的骚扰,可能有一斤重!全身几处被刺到发红发痒,把它捧起来,扔到沙滩上脱水半小时以示惩罚(很残忍?放心吧,它不怕的,一丢回水中就又活生生的了)。

  从假日七楼处看大海,风光无限,诗人到此,定诗兴大发,情人到此,定情意更浓,石头到此,像块望海石。

  晚上的海似乎更不宁静,打开门,由远及近地飘来的海浪声令自己无心睡眠,思绪因此而纷乱:我幸福吗?我快乐吗?幸福是一种状态,快乐是一种感觉,世人总是在状态与感觉之间难以取舍。

  忘不了,离开三亚时,才发现,从天空看三亚湾,原来会是如此的美丽,东岛、西岛、市区全景一览无余,真正的水天一色,分不清边际,美到让人窒 息。而穿跃海岛时,更是看到了在天上我看到过的最壮丽的云彩。过琼州海峡之际,见下面海水片片的红色,不知是否是赤潮,反正远没有三亚的海美。离开这儿, 我有点不舍。

  日日面对美丽,美丽也成了一种负担。三亚,只想做你的过客,或许只有这样,内心曾经的那份美丽,才能在心中化为永恒。

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